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CAFENET EL SOL |
Puerto Jimenez, Osa Peninsula, Costa Rica |
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Corcovado National Park |
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Introduction
Corcovado National Park is the largest of the 13 national parks that comprise the Costa Rica National Park system, its oft-heralded crown jewel. Corcovado comprises a classic lowland tropical rain forest ecosystem but enjoys the diversity of the girding mountains. Corcovado contains the largest expanse of contiguous tropical rain forest north of the Amazon Basin and owing to its presence along the isthmus separating North and South America has a biodiversity practically unrivaled on the planet.

The Park contains four ranger stations. While San Pedrillo, La Leona, and Los Patos support camping only, Sirena Ranger Station, at the heart of the park, has dormitory style accommodations and three prepared meals a day. Sirena stays booked well in advance, so all planned excursions into the park should be reserved in advance to ensure dorm space and food at Sirena. Otherwise, you can still go and camp, though there is a limit on the camping permits also. Frequently during our high season, the Park is "closed" because it has a bunch of people visiting. This means that the ranger station in town does not issue permits. It is not necessarily really closed, however, to campers with their own food.
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| Silky Anteater | Becker's Boa |
Fees as of March 2008 are as follows:
| Item | Price per person | Reservation Required? |
| Park Daily Use Fee (five days maximum stay) | $10 per day | NO |
| Dorm sleeping per night (Sirena only) | $8 | YES |
| Camping | $4 | SOMETIMES |
| Breakfast | $12 | YES |
| Lunch | $15 | YES |
| Dinner | $17 | YES |
| Canoe Rental (upon availability) | $20 | NO |
Getting There
The ideal way to enjoy Corcovado is to plan to spend at least two days in the park. A three day trip is ideal to provide two days for hiking and one day for enjoying the diversity of the game trails and wildlife viewing at Sirena Ranger Station. Since there is public transport twice daily from Jimenez to Carate and there is no public transport from Los Patos park entrance to Jimenez, the smoothest route to take is to enter at Los Patos and exit at La Leona. This allows the Corcovado traveler to secure transport on the way in but be able to rely on transport being available on the way out. My favorite way to enter is to hire horses at Guadalupe just outside of La Palma and ride up the river valley to reach the Los Patos park entrance. The cost is $20 per person, and horses are readily available around La Palma so that no advance reservations for the horses are necessary. A taxi from Jimenez to the Los Patos entrance is $60. La Palma taxis will make the run typically for $45, sometimes less. Buses connect Puerto Jimenez and La Palma throughout the day every day.
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| Baird's Tapir | Vulture |
For those planning on making the trip from Puerto Jimenez through Los Patos all the way to Sirena, be advised that the 20 km hike requires a fairly early start. Hikers who do not arrive at the Los Patos ranger station by eleven o'clock are not permitted to continue on to Sirena.
For visitors that are interested in a single day tour to Corcovado, the best way is to fly in by charter on Alfa Romeo ($450 round trip up to five passengers). It's an eight minute flight, and the heart of the park, Sirena cannot be visited in a single day other than by air and arguably by boat. The daily Puerto Jimenez-Carate colectivo makes it possible for overland travelers to make it to the park and back in a single day, but four hours are spent in round trip transport, and from Carate it is still an hour and a half round trip walk to the park entrance. Therefore, hikers going in for a single day from Jimenez through La Leona only have a few hours to explore the southern park entrance before having to catch a ride back out.
La Leona Lodge ($60 per person, three meals included) is an ideal destination for people that wish to explore the park's southern end and enjoy the amenities of beach side fine dining and comfortable bedding and refrigeration.
For Corcovado visitors coming from the Drake area, San Pedrillo is the nearest park entrance but is still an eight mile hike from Drake. A wide variety of Drake tour operators provide one day tours around the San Pedrillo ranger station with transport in and out by speed boat. Because the river mouths are all tidally influenced and are prime habitat for crocodiles and bull sharks at high tide, rivers are ideally best crossed at low tide. When planning hikes, care should be taken, therefore, to hit these crossings as low tide where possible. However, the hike from Sirena to San Pedrillo involves three such crossings and their geographic separation makes it impossible to cross all three in a single day at low tide. Therefore the hike from San Pedrillo to Sirena is one that is best undertaken with a professional guide that knows how to get across these rivers without being eaten by wild animals.
Sirena Ranger Station Amenities
The Sirena Ranger Station is a well anointed picturesque facility in the middle of the jungle that has dormitory style housing, a roofed platform for tents, several thousand square meters of neatly trimmed yard, where you can camp under the elements, dorm style housing with two bunk beds per room for an occupancy of four per room, cafeteria, and park ranger and research offices. The Park Rangers are very helpful and friendly. There is a kitchen and maintenance staff as well. Other permanent camp residents include Charles Foerster, who has lived there eight years in ongoing Baird´s tapir research. At any given time, several other post-graduate research residents will be onsite from universities in Costa Rica, the United States, and abroad. There is an extensive network of well kept trails in the Sirena lowland region. You can also rent a canoe at the Ranger Station and paddle up the Sirena River at high tide. Located about 300 meters from the beach, Sirena also boasts a grass landing strip and daily charter flights from Puerto Jimenez, eight minutes away by air.
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| White-Lipped Peccaries | Midnight Snack |
Corcovado Three-Day Guided Expedition
All inclusive two full day Corcovado expedition, with the following itinerary:
Day One
0600 Departure Jimenez in taxi.
0640 Coffee and pastries at La Danta Lodge in Guadalupe.
0700 Mount up on horses at La Danta Lodge and head for the mountains
0900 Dismount at Corcovado Park boundary and climb to Los Patos
1000 Pass through Los Patos, fill water bottles
1130 Pack lunch in the forest
1530 Arrival and check in at Sirena: soft drinks, showers, laundry, lounging
1800 Dinner, Sirena
1900 Night hike, Sirena area, optional, two hours max.
Day Two
0600 Breakfast at Sirena
0700 Depending on tides either canoe trip up Sirena River or wilderness hike on Sirena trails.
1100 Lunch at Sirena
1230 Depending on tide schedule either canoe trip up Sirena River or wilderness hike on Sirena Trails
1800 Dinner, Sirena
1900 Night hike, Sirena area, optional, two hours max.
Day Three
0600 Breakfast
0700 Departure (fill water bottles). Hike along the beach trail to the La Leona Ranger Station
1400 Arrival at latest at Carate pulpería. Depending on time you can stop at La Leona Lodge forty minutes prior for ice cold soft drinks, or, even iced cold beer (since you're nearly there).
1600 Departure in the Puerto Jimenez Colectivo from the Carate Pulperia
1800 Back in
Puerto Jimenez
PRICE: Corcovado Three Day, All Included: 2 people: $550 per
person, 3 people: $525 per person, 4 people: $500 per
person. These rates apply only when dorm housing is available in Sirena.
For camping expeditions, pricing is done on a case-by-case basis and is more
expensive.
Reserve Now.
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| Sirena River Mouth Low Tide | Sirena River Mouth High Tide |
Corcovado Two-Day Guided Excursion
All inclusive two full day Corcovado excursion, with the following itinerary:
Day One
0600 Departure Jimenez in taxi.
0640 Coffee and pastries at La Danta Lodge in Guadalupe.
0700 Mount up on horses at La Danta Lodge and head for the mountains
0900 Dismount at Corcovado Park boundary and climb to Los Patos
1000 Pass through Los Patos, fill water bottles
1130 Pack lunch in the forest
1530 Arrival and checkin at Sirena: soft drinks, showers, laundry, lounging
1800 Dinner, Sirena
1900 Night hike, Sirena area, optional, two hours max.
Day Two
0600 Breakfast
0700 Departure (fill water bottles). Hike along the beach trail to the La Leona Ranger Station
1400 Arrival at latest at Carate pulpería. Depending on time you can stop at La Leona Lodge forty minutes prior for ice cold soft drinks, or, even iced cold beer (since you're nearly there).
1600 Departure in the Puerto Jimenez Colectivo from the Carate Pulperia
1800 Back in Puerto Jimenez
PRICE: Corcovado Two Day, All Included: 2 people: $400 per person, 3 people: $375 per person, 4 people: $300 per person. These rates apply only when dorm housing is available in Sirena. For camping expeditions, pricing is done on a case-by-case basis and is more expensive. Reserve Now.
What to Bring
The best rule is that If it won't fit in a day pack, don't bring it along. You will be hiking 38 kilometers, 19 the first day, and 19 the second day. The first day is a cool and relatively easy day, the second day is grueling, hot, and tiring. Bring only the bare essentials, which are the following:
1) Loose cotton clothing, shorts, t-shirt, hat, one change tops, and plan to wash your day one hiking clothes at Sirena and put them on wet for Day 2 the next morning.
2) Appropriate footwear is individual specific, but leather is not recommended. Day One can be done barefoot. Day Two involves lots of rocks, so you should have something more than Tevas. I prefer the $5 pair of rubber boots sold locally. They are tough, have excellent traction in the forest, are easy to take off and put on, and dry very quickly if you go over the top.
3) Insect protection. Bring a strong repellant (i.e. one with DEET as an active ingredient). Two different species of locally present mosquitoes carry dengue fever and malaria. Also, for optimal comfort at the Sirena dormitory housing, a mosquito net is advised.
4) Water. Two-liter bottle is adequate. Water is heavy; don't get carried away as there is potable water for refills at all the ranger stations.
5) Snacks and Treats. Every slightest creature comfort is magnified in the wilderness, so be your own judge, just keep it light.
6) Sunglasses and Sun Block.
7) Camera, obviously.
8) Plastic bags. One garbage size plastic bag that you can put your pack in to stay dry, one small plastic bag for dirty clothes, and several zip loc baggies to carry items that must stay dry: passport, matches, camera, film, SIMS, rolling papers, etc.
9) Sheet(s). Sheets are not provided at the dormitory. Bring a second one to sleep on top of if you want, remember weight when packing.
10) Basic Essentials. Knife, lighter, flashlight, spare batteries, ballpoint pen, essential meds (anaphylactic shock remedy, insulin, lithium, birth control, etc.) according to your particular medical circumstances.
11) Cash. You will want some cash to buy cold soft drinks at Sirena and beers or pops at Carate.
One Day Ground Corcovado Tour
Hike the La Leona ranger station vicinity up to Madrigal River and inland. Round trip by Carate colectivo. Lunch, transport, park entrance fee, guide included: 2-person minimum: $100 each. 3-4: $75 each. more than four: $65 each. For Reservations or More Information
One-Day Air
Explore Sirena on a lagoon hike and a river canoeing trip. Fly in at six a.m., depart three p.m. $850 for round trip air and tour guide, park permits and pack lunch extra. For Reservations or More Information
Corcovado Park Reservation Service
Corcovado National Park has well marked trails, making a self-guided experience completely reasonable. Choose your dates and do it without a guide. We´ll make your reservations and process payments and give you receipts for day use fees, meal fees, and overnight camping or dorm housing. Check the table earlier on this page for applicable rates, and let me know what you wish to include with all your dates. Our fee is $25 for this service, and we provide you with all the receipts so that you can proceed directly to the Park without having to come to Puerto Jimenez to pay and retrieve your permits at the Ranger Station. If you would like horses from La Palma to the Park Boundary, budget $30 per person. Please fill out the form below to request personalized Corcovado permit application or inquire by email here. Please note that there is a $25 fee (per group, not person) for this service.
If you prefer to handle your reservations personally, you can do so by telephone to the National Park Service in Puerto Jiménez (506-2735-5036). The park does not handle credit cards, but can process wire transfers and direct deposit into their Costa Rican bank account. Many people who reserve directly find out awkwardly that they have to come to Puerto Jimenez during business hours to pay at the bank and retrieve their permits at the Parks Office. If you do this, be sure to do it between 8:30 and 3:30, Monday through Friday only. It is well worth the $25 fee to have us do this footwork for you so you are ready to go to the park before you ever leave home.

La Chancha Rock
For general reservations inquiries, please fill out our Osa Peninsula Travel Information Questionnaire. Alternately, please write me or call at one of the phone numbers provided below. From the United States, remember to use the 011 direct dialing prefix.
CAFENET EL SOL
Travel and Tour Information and Reservation Services
English: 506 2735-5702
Spanish:
506 2735-5719
Facsimile: 506 2735-5717
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